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How did a 5,000 sq. km. lake transform into the Kashmir we know today? A look at Kashmir’s prehistoric past...

Kashmir’s First Settlers 

The story of Kashmir and its early settlers is truly amazing!

Kashmir’s First Settlers

All eyes are on Kashmir, with the central government revoking the special status it enjoyed since independence. Let us put this decision in context and look at the ironies that litter the region’s political history, which has come full circle

Kashmir & How We Got Here

A look at the ironies that litter the region’s political history, which has come full circle

Queen Didda was a powerful and formidable  ruler, who has often been described as ruthless by Kashmiri writers. Has history been fair on her?

Kashmir’s ‘Ruthless’ Queen Didda

Queen Didda was Kashmir’s powerful and formidable Hindu ruler, who ruled Kashmir with an iron fist.

One of India’s best Neolithic sites is being destroyed – believe it or not – by a local cricket tournament being played plum in the middle of the archaeological zone. On the outskirts of Srinagar, the site has been damaged irreversibly even as those meant to protect it look the other way. Let us rally together to salvage what remains of Burzahom 

Saving Kashmir’s Prehistoric Gem

Burzahom is being destroyed by a local cricket tournament being played in the middle of the archaeological zone

In the rugged mountains of North Pakistan is a cave that was an important centre of Hinduism dating to the 2nd century CE. And, yet, its true significance was discovered only 20 years ago. Catch the story of Kashmir Smast and its explosive revelations

Kashmir Smast: The Maha Guha of Lord Shiva

Kashmir Smast: Maha Guha of Lord Shiva

The buzz surrounding the upcoming film 'Napoleon' has cast a worldwide spotlight on the love story between Napoleon and his first wife, Josephine. But did you know that there is an interesting 'Pashmina' connection to their romance? Catch the story

Napoleon’s Kashmir Connection

Kashmir experienced its Golden Age in the 8th century CE under a ‘Serpent King’ named Lalitaditya Muktapida, who ruled from present-day Srinagar. Catch the story of the Karkota Kings, their intriguing origin story, exploits and expeditions, and fabulous archaeological legacy.

Karkotas: Kashmir’s ‘Serpent’ Dynasty (7th to 9th century CE)

‘For rivers which have set out from their own region, the ocean is the limit. But nowhere is there a limit for those who are frankly aspiring to be conquerors.’ 

These words were written by 12th century CE Kashmiri historian Pandit Kalhana, in his magnum opus Rajatarangini or the River of Kings, a historic chronicle of the Kings of Kashmir. He was referring to the greatest Emperor of Kashmir, Lalitaditya Muktapida (724-761 CE), whose empire stretched from Central Asia to the Gangetic plains. Emperor Lalitaditya belonged to the Karkotas, a dynasty that ruled over Kashmir from the 7th to the 9th centuries CE, and who presided over the ‘Golden Age of Kashmir’. 

Travel 22 km north-west of Srinagar, to a plateau overlooking the Jhelum River, to a place locals call ‘Kani Shahr’ or the ‘City of Stones’. This was once ‘Parihaspora’ or the ‘City of Smiles’, the capital of the Karkota Empire. It was one of the most magnificent cities in North India in its time. A millennium of political turbulence in Kashmir has meant that very little has survived of one of India’s dynasties. Due to severe paucity of material and epigraphical evidence on the Karkotas, we must turn to Pandit Kalhana, to piece together their story. 







The Martand Sun Temple is the only surviving reminder of the great Kashmiri Emperor Lalitaditya, whose empire stretched from Central Asia to the Gangetic plain

Lalitaditya Muktadipa - Kashmir’s Great Empire Builder

The ruins of the great Sun temple at Martand, never fail to take your breath away. Most people will recognise them from Bollywood filmmaker Vishal Bharadwaj’s haunting film Haider (2014). It is sad that we need a movie set, as a reference point to what was once a spectacular Sun temple, unlike any, anywhere in the subcontinent. But this article is not about the Martand temple which was pulled down in the late 15th century CE. It is about the King who built it. The Martand Sun Temple, is the only surviving reminder of the great Kashmiri Emperor Lalitaditya, whose empire stretched from Central Asia to the Gangetic plain.

King Lalitaditya of the Karkota dynasty of Kashmir ruled for 37 years from 724 to 761 CE. His rule is considered to be the golden age of Kashmir, when art, architecture, culture and learning flourished. Due to his great conquests, writers and scholars have termed him ‘Alexander of Kashmiri history’. Today, while the conquests of Chola King Raja Raja Chola over South East Asia in 11th century CE are celebrated, the exploits of this great Kashmiri king have been buried in the pages of time.

The story of the great Kashmiri Emperor Lalitaditya whose empire stretched from Central Asia to the Gangetic plain

 For decades, conflict has eclipsed all else in Kashmir but archaeologists, historians and heritage experts might just have a balm for these troubled times. Our weekly online talk show, Heritage Matters, focused on how we can revive interest in a region that was once a confluence of cultures

Heritage Matters: Kashmir’s Forgotten Wonders 

For decades, conflict has eclipsed all else in Kashmir but experts might just have a balm for these troubled times.

Heritage Matters: Kashmir’s Forgotten Wonders

The tragic story of Habba Khatoon, or ‘Zoon’, one of the greatest poets of Kashmir isn’t very widely known. But her ballads are sung in the valley even today, 400 years after her death! 

Habba Khatoon: Kashmir’s Poet Queen

In Athwajan, on the Srinagar-Jammu highway is a simple grave which is largely ignored. Here rests Habba Khatoon, also popular as Zoon or Zoonie, one of the greatest poets of Kashmir.

Sadly the story of Kashmir’s greatest poet in not very well known outside Kashmir. But it is a testimony to Habba Khatoon’s greatness that her ballads are sung in the valley even today, 400 years after her death!

The tragic story of Habba Khatoon, or ‘Zoon’, one of the greatest poetesses of Kashmir.

Lal Ded was a 14th century mystic-poet whose verse laid the foundation of the Kashmiri language and literature. Catch the story of this naked mendicant, who rose above her miserable life to become a spiritual icon for centuries to come

Lal Ded: Kashmir’s Rebel Poetess

A 14th century mystic-poet whose verse laid the foundation of the Kashmiri language and literature

Lost Cities

King Lalitaditya was one  of  Kashmir’s most famous rulers.  But did you know, that his capital Parihaspora, near Srinagar remains one of the most confounding sites in India. Why are there thousands of stones scattered all around, its once grand buildings? Find out 

Parihaspora: Unmapped Capital of Kashmir

The intriguing story of a beautiful but blighted city that lasted only as long as its creator did

Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin was a progressive ruler of the Shah Miri dynasty of Kashmir and was known for his innovative socio-economic reforms that could teach us a thing or two even today. More than 500 years later, his legacy continues in the music and handicrafts of the region.


Zain-ul-Abidin: The ‘Akbar’ of Kashmir

If you ask a Kashmiri about Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin (r. 1420-1470), they will probably tell you he was a ‘Bud Shah’ or ‘Great King’. Often compared to the great Mughal Emperor Akbar, the Sultan earned this popular title for his tolerance, and the stability and prosperity he brought to his kingdom. He patronized Sanskrit and even banned cow slaughter!

This is even more surprising because Zain-ul-Abidin was the son and successor of the notorious Sultan Sikandar Shah, also known as ‘Sikandar Butshikan’ (the iconoclast) for his persecution of Hindus and Buddhists in Kashmir, and the destruction of hundreds of temples, including the famous Sun Temple at Martand in Kashmir. 

On the occasion of Buddha Purnima we bring to you the story of  Harwan monastery in Kashmir where 2000 years ago  4th Buddhist council was held and scholars from all over the subcontinent congregated 

The Harwan Monastery: A Relic of Kashmir’s Buddhist Past

Kashmir’s Harwan Monastery was where Emperor Kanishka’s fourth Buddhist Council was convened in 2nd century CE.

As the ‘New Great Game’ plays out across the Himalayas, we revisit the original Great Game, where an Indian spy played a pivotal role in aiding British missions in Central Asia and Afghanistan. After a life of action, drama and intrigue, Mohan Lal died in obscurity

Explorer, Scholar, Spy: The Life and Times of Mohan Lal Kashmiri

“Now I shall go far and far into the North, playing the Great Game”

– Rudyard Kipling, Kim

The recent tensions between China and India across the high Himalayas have been labelled by some scholars as the ‘New Great Game’. This harks back to an episode in history called the ‘Great Game’, the shadow boxing between British-India and Tsarist Russia for access to and control over South and Central Asia across the 19th century. 

The original Great Game had all the characteristics of a bestselling novel, filled with action, adventure and intrigue. It also had its set of glamorous characters: Sir Alexander ‘Sikunder’ Burnes – the famous British spy with oodles of charm and dashing good looks to boot – was the James Bond of his era. He was matched on the Russian side by Captain Yan Vitkevich, the enigmatic Polish-Lithuanian orientalist and explorer. Mercifully, there was very little by way of direct bloodshed between the principal protagonists, although things did come close to getting out of hand on a few occasions. No wonder the Russians evocatively called the contest ‘The Tournament of Shadows’.  

The Verinag spring, from which emerges the Jhelum river, is flush with history and legends

Verinag: The Heart of Jhelum

The legends and history of the Verinag spring, from which emerges the Jhelum river are fascinating

Fine hand woven, Pashmina shawls or Cashmeres as they are known, are prized for their beauty & quality. Literally meaning ‘soft gold’ in Kashmiri, the Pashmina has a truly illustrious and ancient past

Pashmina: Illustrious and Ancient

Literally meaning ‘soft gold’ in Kashmiri, the Pashmina has a truly illustrious and ancient past

Srinagar’s irresistible allure emanates from its top draws like the Dal Lake, markets, beautiful shrines and picture-perfect landscape. But there is a lot more to see. Here’s a list of lesser-known but remarkable monuments that will take your breath away.

Srinagar’s Hidden Wonders     

Travel off the beaten track to discover Srinagar’s hidden wonders

Srinagar’s Hidden Wonders

Treasures

Bihar Museum Exhibition: Women and Deities

Intersections

Ashwin Sanghi on Weaving Stories Through Fact & Fiction

Trails

The Making of Jaipur

Pune before the Peshwas 

Tales of Shahjahanabad

Shola Durga

Lippan White Wall Mirror

Handmade Harappan Dancing Girl Replica in Dhokra Metal

Bastar Handmade Wrought Iron Spiral Tealight Holder

 we travel to Srinagar, referred to in medieval records as 

, and look at how the Islamic monuments there and beyond, tell the history of the city and the region. Taking us on this rare quest is architect and historian Hakim Sameer Hamdani, who has just authored the book 

The Syncretic Traditions of Islamic Religious Architecture of Kashmir (Early 14th –18th Century)

Join us as we visit and learn about some of the most exquisite buildings in Srinagar and, in fact, all of India.

In City Trails, we travel to Srinagar, referred to in medieval records as Sheher-i-Kashmir, and look at how the Islamic monuments there and beyond, tell the history of the city and the region. 